Automatic coop doors, cameras and coop power gear

Automatic and solar coop doors, coop cameras, lights, timers and fans, compared by power source, trigger, lift capacity and low-temperature figure as listed.

A silver-laced Wyandotte stepping out of a coop pop door
Photo: ell brown, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Flickr
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How to choose an automatic chicken coop door

An automatic chicken coop door closes the pop hole at dusk and opens it in the morning, so the flock is shut in even when you are late home. Raccoons, foxes and owls hunt after dark, so a door that never forgets does more for safety than any other coop gadget. Compare four things:

  • Trigger. A light sensor follows the seasons; a timer gives fixed times. Most doors offer both, and Run-Chicken adds app control over Bluetooth.
  • Power. Batteries (Omlet Autodoor, ChickenGuard Premium, Run-Chicken T50), solar (ChickenGuard PRO Solar, Run-Chicken Eternal) or plug-in (FarmLite).
  • Door type. Some kits include a door; openers like ChickenGuard Standard lift your existing door. Check the maker's lift limit: ChickenGuard lists 1 kg for Premium and 2 kg for PRO.
  • Cold and safety. Look for an obstruction stop and the maker's low-temperature figure, and keep the track clear of ice and bedding.

Coop cameras, lights and timers

A camera lets you check that every hen went in before the door shut. Wi-Fi models from Wyze and Tapo need signal at the coop; a 4G solar camera such as the VOSKER V300 suits coops far from the house. Coop lights on a timer, like the AutoCoop LayLight2 or an outdoor plug timer, can extend winter daylight if you choose to; hens naturally lay less as days shorten, and extra light is optional.

Heated waterer bases and coop fans

Heated waterer bases are filed under feeders and waterers, but they belong in any coop power plan: a heated base keeps a metal or plastic fount from freezing. Little Giant lists 110 W for metal founts and Harris Farms 125 W for metal and plastic drinkers. In summer, a solar exhaust fan helps move hot, damp air out of a small coop.

Electricity in a dusty coopUse outdoor-rated cords and outlets, keep heaters and bases clear of bedding, and avoid long-term extension cords. Fire marshals warn that heat sources in coops cause fires every winter; see heat lamp fire safety.Source: Clark County Fire Marshal

Coop automation: questions

Light sensor or timer: which is better for a coop door?
A light sensor follows sunrise and sunset through the year; a timer is predictable but needs resetting as days change. Many doors let you mix both, for example open by timer and close by light.
Do automatic coop doors work in winter?
Many list a low-temperature figure, such as ChickenGuard's -4°F for the PRO. Ice in the track can still stop a door, so check it on freezing mornings.
Is an automatic door predator-proof?
It removes the risk of forgetting to close the coop. A self-locking or anti-lift door, as on some ChickenGuard kits, also resists raccoons prying it up.
Do I need Wi-Fi for a coop door?
No. Most doors run on a timer or light sensor alone. Run-Chicken uses a Bluetooth app; Wi-Fi only matters for remote control and cameras.
Can hens get shut out?
Yes, if the door closes before the last hen goes in. Set closing time well after sunset or use a light sensor, and check once with a camera.